Dublin's Indian restaurant scene changed completely in the last decade. What was once a handful of anglicised curry houses is now a genuine spread of regional kitchens — Keralan, Punjabi, Hyderabadi and Gujarati — driven by a fast-growing Indian community in the city and in Cork and Galway.

Where to look

Parnell Street and Capel Street hold the highest concentration of genuinely regional kitchens, including several that cater primarily to Indian students and workers. Rathmines and Ranelagh lean more towards polished sit-down dining. Blanchardstown and Tallaght have the grocery-plus-kitchen operations that often produce the most honest food in the city.

The Keralan advantage

Ireland recruited heavily from Kerala for its health service, and Dublin's food benefited enormously. Keralan cooking — coconut-based curries, appam, beef fry, Malabar parotta — is now easier to find well-executed in Dublin than in many larger European cities. If you see appam and stew on a menu, order it.

What to skip

Be wary of menus that run to sixty items across every region of India plus a chip section. Breadth like that usually means one base gravy with different garnishes. The best kitchens in Dublin are narrow: a Keralan place that does Keralan food, a Punjabi place that runs a real tandoor.

Practical notes

Sunday lunch buffets are common and are a reasonable way to sample a kitchen cheaply, though the food is necessarily made to hold. For a proper meal, go on a weekday evening and order from the specials board rather than the laminated menu.

Eating Indian in Ireland

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